PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS
On Receipt of Order
Open your package immediately on receipt of order. If roots appear dry, soak the roots in water for 6 hours. If you are not planting right away, keep the roots moist, and plant A.S.A.P. Notify us of any discrepancies in your order.
Spring Planting
Choose a protected site if possible, with well-drained soil. Fruit trees will not tolerate wet locations. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots without cramping. If your soil is of poor quality you may wish to incorporate some top soil into the backfill. Firm the soil around the roots and water well. Stake the tree using a 2" X 2" wooden stake of a metal T-rail. Tie the tree loosely to the stake, allowing the tree to sway several inches. Do not put fertilizer into the planting hole.
When planting dwarf varieties, the rule of thumb is to keep the graft union 3" above ground level. However, when planting dwarf apples in Zone 3 or 4, or dwarf pears or plums, keep the graft close to ground level for greater winter protection. Prune off any scion roots that appear each year.If you have purchased 1 yr whips, prune the tree back to a height of 30" after planting. This strengthens the trunk and helps to force out branches below the cut. For 2yr trees, cut back the leader by 1/3. Also prune back any branches by one-half. When trees are dug and re-planted there is always some root loss no matter how careful the operation. Pruning bare-root trees at planting time helps to balance out the top with the reduced root area. The heading cut on one year whips will encourage branching directly below the cut. The resulting branches, particularly the highest ones will usually emerge with weak, narrow crotch angles and grow quite vertically.When these potential branches have grown to 20cm they are pliable and can be easily trained to a more desirable horizontal habit. To accomplish this clip a clothespin on the trunk just above the branch. Gently bend the branch downward and place the clothespin on top of the branch. The clothespin will hold the branch in place as it sets a strong , wide crotch angle and highly desirable horizontal position.Water regularly during the growing season. Applying a straw mulch will be beneficial.
Fertilizing
Your fertilizing needs will be determined by the soil. Sandy soils will usually require more fertilizing than loam or heavy soils. Consider applying a thick layer of well rotted compost or manure under your trees in the spring, or apply a commercial fertilizer according to the label direction. You may wish to have a soil test done to give you a more accurate idea of you fertilizer needs. Do not over fertilize. This is a common cause of failure. Excessive fertility, especially nitrogen, promotes excessive soft, lush growth which is susceptible to disease and winter kill.Do not fertilize in late summer. Our general recommendation is to not fertilize after mid July. The goal is to have the trees hardened off for winter. Late fertilizing promotes late season growth which will not be winter hardy.Adequate soil fertility is necessary to promote disease resistance, winter hardiness, quality fruit and tree vigour.
Winter Protection
Promote the hardening off of your trees in the fall by reducing water after August, or after harvest, and by not applying fertilizer after July. Install guards for protection from mice and rabbits. Mound up the soil in late fall to cover the rootstock, similar to rose protection, and remove in early spring. This will protect the rootstock. Tender rootstocks such as quince for pear trees should be protected. Although rootstocks for cold hardy trees are chosen to be equally cold hardy, you may wish to protect them for insurance.Consider painting the trunks of your trees to protect against southwest injury. Use white latex water based paint. Make sure there is no oil in the paint, as the oil will injure the tree. Plant in protected sites if possible.Deer may be a problem. They love the new shoots of your fruit trees. Some of the successful control methods we employ are: Dogs on the property, especially at night, radio or tape playing at sporadic intervals, hanging soap in the trees and hanging treated dryer fabric softener sheets such as "Bounce" in the trees.Grouse or Partridge feed on the buds in winter. If they reside near your site they may be a problem.
Contact us with any questions you may have concerning your fruit trees.
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